Complete Beginner's Guide to Buying Pearl Necklaces

Buying your first pearl necklace can feel overwhelming. With so many types, grades, and price points to consider, it's easy to feel lost in a sea of unfamiliar terminology. Should you choose Akoya or freshwater? What does "AAA grade" really mean? How much should you expect to pay for quality pearls?

This comprehensive guide will demystify the pearl-buying process, giving you the knowledge you need to make a confident purchase whether you're treating yourself or selecting a meaningful gift for someone special.

Understanding the Four Main Pearl Types

All cultured pearls available today fall into four main categories. Understanding their differences is the first step to making an informed purchase.

Akoya Pearls

The classic choice for traditional pearl necklaces, Akoya pearls are cultivated primarily in Japan and China. They're known for their exceptional roundness, mirror-like lustre, and consistent white or cream colours. Sizes typically range from 6mm to 9mm, making them perfect for elegant, understated jewellery.

Best for: Classic styling, professional settings, traditional elegance

Price range: $200 - $10,000+ depending on quality and length

Freshwater Pearls

Cultivated in lakes and rivers (primarily in China), freshwater pearls offer the best value in the pearl world. Modern cultivation techniques have dramatically improved their quality, with top-grade freshwater pearls rivalling Akoya in lustre and shape. They come in a wider variety of natural colours including white, pink, lavender, and peach.

Best for: Everyday wear, first-time buyers, budget-conscious shoppers

Price range: $50 - $2,000+

South Sea Pearls

The largest and most valuable cultured pearls, South Sea pearls are grown in the warm waters of Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Australian South Sea pearls are particularly prized for their exceptional size (10-20mm), satiny lustre, and natural white, silver, and golden colours. These are investment-grade pearls for serious collectors.

Best for: Statement pieces, special occasions, investment jewellery

Price range: $1,000 - $100,000+

Tahitian Pearls

Cultivated in French Polynesia, Tahitian pearls are famous for their exotic dark colours—not actually black, but deep shades of grey, green, blue, and purple with fascinating overtones. Each pearl is unique, making them prized for their individuality.

Best for: Modern styling, unique pieces, fashion-forward wearers

Price range: $500 - $25,000+

The Five Quality Factors: What Makes a Pearl Valuable

Regardless of type, all pearls are evaluated on five key quality factors. Understanding these will help you assess value and compare pearls effectively.

1. Lustre

Lustre is the most important quality factor—it's what gives pearls their magical glow. High-quality lustre means you can see sharp, bright reflections on the pearl's surface, almost like looking into a mirror. Poor lustre appears chalky or dull.

When examining lustre, look for pearls that show clear reflections of light sources. The reflection should be bright and crisp, not fuzzy or dim.

2. Surface Quality

No pearl is perfect—even the finest specimens have minor blemishes. What matters is the degree and visibility of these imperfections. Top-grade pearls have minimal visible blemishes, while lower grades show more obvious spots, bumps, or wrinkles.

Minor blemishes that are difficult to see when worn are generally acceptable. Avoid pearls with large pits, cracks, or areas where the nacre appears thin or worn.

3. Shape

Perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most valuable. However, near-round pearls that appear round when worn offer excellent value. Baroque (irregular) and drop shapes have their own appeal and can be significantly more affordable.

4. Size

Larger pearls are rarer and more valuable, all else being equal. However, the "right" size depends on the wearer's frame and personal preference. A petite person may find 7-8mm pearls perfectly proportioned, while someone with a larger frame might prefer 9-10mm or larger.

5. Matching

For necklaces, how well the pearls are matched in colour, size, and lustre significantly affects both appearance and value. Well-matched strands create a harmonious, elegant look. Poorly matched strands appear uneven and less refined.

Understanding Pearl Grades

Unfortunately, there's no universal pearl grading system—different sellers use different scales. Here's how to interpret the most common systems:

AAA-A System (Most Common)

• AAA: The highest quality. Nearly flawless surface, excellent lustre, round shape
• AA+: Very high quality. Minor blemishes visible only upon close inspection
• AA: Good quality. Some visible blemishes, good lustre
• A: Lower quality. More obvious blemishes, moderate lustre

A-D System (Tahitian Pearls)

Tahitian pearls use a different system where A is the highest grade:

• A: Highest quality—excellent lustre, minimal blemishes
• B: Very good quality—slight blemishes, good lustre
• C: Moderate quality—noticeable blemishes
• D: Lower quality—significant blemishes

Choosing the Right Necklace Length

Pearl necklace lengths have traditional names that indicate their style and versatility:

• Choker (35-40cm): Sits close to the neck. Best with V-necks and open necklines
• Princess (43-48cm): The most versatile length. Works with almost any neckline
• Matinee (50-60cm): Falls at the collarbone. Suited for business and casual wear
• Opera (70-90cm): Falls at the bust. Can be doubled for versatility
• Rope (115cm+): Can be worn long or wrapped multiple times

For your first pearl necklace, princess length offers the most versatility. It's suitable for both casual and formal occasions and flatters most body types.

How Much Should You Spend?

Pearl prices vary dramatically based on type, quality, and size. Here are realistic price expectations for quality necklaces in Australia:

• Entry-level freshwater: $50-150 for AA grade, 6-7mm
• Quality freshwater: $200-500 for AAA grade, 7-8mm
• Entry-level Akoya: $300-700 for AA grade, 6-7mm
• Quality Akoya: $800-2,500 for AAA grade, 7-8mm
• Entry-level South Sea: $2,000-5,000 for AA grade
• Quality South Sea: $10,000+ for AAA grade

If a deal seems too good to be true, it probably is. Be particularly wary of "South Sea" or "Akoya" pearls priced like freshwater—they're likely mislabelled or imitation.

Red Flags: What to Avoid

Protect yourself from poor purchases by watching for these warning signs:

• Prices dramatically below market rates for the claimed pearl type
• Vague or missing information about pearl type and origin
• No return policy or extremely short return windows
• Stock photos instead of actual product images
• Inflated grading terms like "AAAA" or "super gem quality"
• No information about the seller's expertise or history

Making Your Purchase

When you're ready to buy, take your time. Examine multiple options if possible, comparing lustre and surface quality side by side. Trust your eyes—if a pearl doesn't catch your eye with its glow, move on to another option.

Ask questions about the seller's sourcing, return policy, and any guarantees offered. A reputable seller will happily answer your questions and provide detailed information about their pearls.

Remember, a quality pearl necklace is an investment that can last generations with proper care. Taking the time to understand what you're buying ensures you'll make a purchase you'll treasure for years to come.

Have specific questions about buying pearls? Reach out to our team for personalised guidance.